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00the route
Route

Sapporo in two days: ramen at six, crab at night, then Jozankei

September 25, 2026Sora Nakamura

Sapporo the way people there eat it: a bowl of ramen when the first shop opens at six, the university museum when it opens at ten, a clear-soup ramen for lunch, madeleines to carry, and crab in the evening. The next day, the bus into the hills to Jozankei for a café, an apple pie and a night in a hot-spring building.

We have no source for a hotel in the city, so the first night is yours to choose. The morning ramen shop closes on Thursdays and the museum on Mondays; the bus minutes to Jozankei are our estimate, so check the timetable.

Where
Sapporo
How long
2 days
Stops
8
Distance
28 km · 1.7 km on foot
On the clock
about 9 h a day
Pace
steady
Season
all
Mood
first-time · eating · onsen

Times are the editor’s plan, not a timetable. ≈ marks our own rough estimate; check the train times before you go.

01what it costs
Day 1¥11,200–¥11,350≈ $71 / €62fares ¥0 · places ¥11,200–¥11,3501 stop not priced yet · 3 fares not recorded yet
Day 2¥2,450≈ $15 / €14fares ¥0 · places ¥2,4501 stop not priced yet · 1 fare not recorded yet
Priced so far¥13,650–¥13,800≈ $86 / €76midCovers 6 of 8 stops and the trains · 4 rides without a fare · the hotel is not priced

Per person, one adult. Each place’s figure is what its source printed, and the stop names the source and the date; the fares are the operators’ own published figures. Meals and rides with no printed figure are not in the total, and a figure printed more than a year ago says so. Converted at the European Central Bank reference rate of 2026-09-24, not a bank rate.

02the day
  1. Day 1
  2. 中華そば うさぎ

    A morning-ramen shop with a queue for the six o'clock opening. The clear soup blends chicken and pork with dried sardine and bonito; the basic su-ra, just soup, noodles and leek, is ¥500 and served until nine.

    札幌市 · Hanako · 30 min¥500per personas printed by Hanako July 23

    Hours6:00–14:00 last order (Wednesdays to 9:00); closed Thursdays · Hanako, Jul 2026

    The place →Open in maps ↗
  3. Metro≈25 min · Namboku line south, then a walk
  4. Hokkaido University Museum 北海道大学総合博物館

    The university began as Sapporo Agricultural College in 1876. Hanako's advice from Hitoshi Okamoto: see the old Hokkaido Government Office first, come in by the south gate, pass Clark's bust, and on to the museum. Entry is free.

    札幌市 · Hanako · 75 minFreeper Hokkaido University Museum September 25checked 2026-09-25

    Hours10:00–17:00; closed Mondays (open on a holiday, closed the next weekday) · museum.hokudai.ac.jp, checked 25 Sep 2026

    The place →Open in maps ↗
  5. Taxi≈12 min
  6. 支那そば 鋳

    The shop that started Sapporo's taste for clear soup: free-range chicken, water and good soy sauce, in a room as quiet as a kappo counter. Jidori shoyu ramen ¥1,200, with a seasoned egg ¥1,350.

    札幌市 · Hanako · 45 min¥1,200–¥1,350per personas printed by Hanako August 5

    Hours11:00–14:30 last order, until the soup runs out; open every day · Hanako, Aug 2026

    The place →Open in maps ↗
  7. Metro≈25 min · Tozai line to Odori, then a walk north
  8. 六花亭 札幌本店

    Rokkatei's main Sapporo shop. Hanako's gift: Daiheigen, a madeleine rich with butter, sold at every Rokkatei shop.

    札幌市 · Hanako · 30 min

    HoursNot printed in the article; check before you go

    The place →Open in maps ↗
  9. Walk≈21 min · 1.2 km
  10. えびかに合戦札幌本店

    Crab on the twelfth floor, with the city lit below. The all-you-can-eat course, hairy crab and snow crab with crab nigiri and prawn tempura, is from ¥9,500 for ninety minutes, for two or more, booked ahead.

    札幌市 · Jalan Net News · 90 min¥9,500per personas printed by Jalan September 24Booking required

    Hours16:00–22:30; closed over the New Year · Jalan, as of 24 Sep 2026

    The place →Open in maps ↗
  11. Day 2
  12. Bus≈80 min · bus from Sapporo to Jozankei
  13. 喫茶灬(れっか)

    Opened in October 2025 beside an inn made from a sixty-year-old house by the architect Yoshiya Tanoue. Hand-drip coffee and seasonal sweets; the autumn Mont Blanc and a coffee are ¥1,000 each.

    札幌市 · Hanako · 60 min¥2,000per personas printed by Hanako August 2

    Hours11:00–15:00 (last order); closes on irregular days · Hanako, Aug 2026

    The place →Open in maps ↗
  14. Walk≈4 min · 0.2 km
  15. ふる川果日 J・glacée

    The apple pie is the reason: apples from Nakai Orchard in Yoichi, about twenty kinds cooked lightly in their skins, five blended in each pie. The glacé fruit teas are ¥450.

    札幌市 · Hanako · 45 min¥450per personas printed by Hanako August 2

    Hours9:30–17:00; closed Tuesdays and on irregular days · Hanako, Aug 2026

    The place →Open in maps ↗
  16. Walk≈5 min · 0.3 km
  17. 休日ビルヂング

    Stay at Exclamation Hotel on the fourth floor of Kyujitsu Building: guests get the Kyujitsu bath, the lounges here and at the group's other houses, and free drinks. The cod-roe set meal, ¥1,980, is served to non-guests too.

    札幌市 · HanakoBooking required

    HoursBuilding 6:00–9:00 and 10:00–24:00 · Hanako, Aug 2026

    The place →Open in maps ↗
04where to sleep
Where to sleep休日ビルヂング

Stay at Exclamation Hotel on the fourth floor of Kyujitsu Building: guests get the Kyujitsu bath, the lounges here and at the group's other houses, and free drinks. The cod-roe set meal, ¥1,980, is served to non-guests too.

05music for the way
Music for the way
For the morningOpen in Spotify ↗
For the tableOpen in Spotify ↗
07the editor

Sora Nakamura was born in Kanazawa, grew up between a fish market and a grandmother's kitchen, and spent her twenties cooking in Tokyo, Lyon and Melbourne before she put down the knife to write. Back in Tokyo since 2019, she keeps a spreadsheet of every place she has eaten at since 2011 and a bicycle she rides to most of them. She writes routes, not rankings, and believes the best restaurant in any town is the one that has been open long enough to have a regular who died there.